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Rewiring Wireless Receiver from an UP2 programmer

Hello!

I only have five wires from the old U2 programmer, live, neutral and earth which I'm ok with. The hot water has two black wire (terminals 3 & 4), but does it matter which wire go into the HW NC or the HW No on the Tado. Thanks in advance

Answers

  • The UP2 is a rebadged Drayton LP822. Logically therefore, in moving the wires, assuming you are operating your boiler in Dumb on-off switched mode - not digital mode (please confirm):

    L goes L, bridged to COM on the wireless receiver - assuming this is a V3+ receiver.

    N goes to N

    Pin 3 goes to HW NO

    Pin 4 goes to CH NO.

    Have studied the photo and cannot see two wires connected to PIN 3, or PIN 4. Have I missed something?

  • Thank you, there are no more wires there, just as the photo is.

    Not to sure about:-

    ' you are operating your boiler in Dumb on-off switched mode - not digital mode (please confirm)'

    Just want to install the V3= receiver

  • Boilers which are capable of being controlled in digital mode - a concept called Opentherm, or EMS, work more efficiently than boilers which can only be instructed to operate at full tilt (ie they arent fed information about the heating curved needed - they just pump it out as hard as they can.

    About 1/5 of the users who attend here have boilers which can operate in digital mode and were unaware. Would you share your complete boiler model? Might be a chance….

  • ohh…..

    Worcester Greenstar 40 CDI…….

  • policywonk
    policywonk ✭✭✭
    edited January 21
    According to the Greenstar support pages it seems to have a few models with that prefix.

    One is a combi, whilst the rest (which have the title 'Conventional' or 'Classical' and all seem to only operate in what Tado calls relay mode.

    None of the versions use digital controls. Technically therefore the wiring map for the thermostat swap given above should work, if there are no complications.

    Yet, before you take a step, please review these questions and provide a quick reply:
    1. Is this a combi boiler or a generic system boiler (which serves hot water and central heating through zone valves)?
    2. Do you have a hot water immersion tank?
    3. Did your central heating plumbing involve having motorised zone valves installed? If so is it for an S Plan or Y plan?
    4. Is there another thermostat in the property controlling this boiler?
  • Thanks for all your help!

    1. It’s a generic system boiler
    2. Yes (pressurised system
    3. No values
    4. Just the one thermostat.
  • policywonk
    policywonk ✭✭✭
    edited January 21
    Check again. There must be valves routing heat to the tank and to the radiators. It is important to find them, likely to be either 1 x 3 way valve or 2 x two way valve. The reason why I ask is because you will need to replace the UP2 with a Tado wireless receiver, and your wall thermostat with a Tado wired thermostat. During installation you will need to know whether it is
    * a Y plan (a three port valve is present)
    * or an S plan (two x 2 port valves are present).
    That information is important when you configure the Tado wireless receiver.

    The wireless receiver acts as the master control point, helping you to set schedules for hot water and central heating via the App. The thermostat sets temperature for central heating:
    * commanding the valve to open up heat for the radiators
    * asking the wireless receiver to start the boiler.
    Let us know how you get on.
  • Can’t I use the Tado wireless thermostat?
  • policywonk
    policywonk ✭✭✭
    edited January 21
    A CH thermostat can switch on the boiler and open the CH FLOW valve. The hot water cylinder usually has thermostat which does a similar job for HW.
    If you want no programmer present, it is possible. You would have to ensure your system is wired so that:
    * When the HW stat calls for heat it opens the HW valve, powers the pump and turns on the boiler. There would be no schedule for HW heating.
    * When the CH stat is on, it also opens the CH feed valve, turns on the pump and the boiler. The Tado app would then give you control over heating schedules for CH.
    Remember, that to replace a two channel programmer, with one Tado central heating thermostat, you would have to permanently hot wire the HW side.

    I would not do that. If one of the motorised valves develops a fault it would create situations where the process of tracking the fault electrically would be more complex, with really strange results in both CH and HW.

    However if that's what you want, best get a trained electrician to make the mods. Will take less than an hour to do and he has to certify it.
  • SilverFox
    SilverFox
    edited January 21

    Ok Policywonk, many thanks for your time and input, so if I got a wired thermostat, would the wireless one still work to create the rooms/heating zones, as in the app?

    I think I might have found the answer, so in Starter Kit V3+ there is the wireless temperature sensor. So if I get the wired thermostat I think I can get the system as I would like it, just need to check the values.

    Thanks again

  • Therein lies the rub. If am not mistaken, your existing wired programmer goes back to your wiring centre and in there determines whether power is to be offered to the CH side, the HW side and also the boiler and pump. It delivers two channels of authority. I believe you'll need

    • a Tado wireless receiver - which is designed to be wired to fit where your existing programmer fits, handles two channels as before.
    • a Tado wired thermostat - which is wired to drive the CH valve open and wirelessly authorise the Tado wireless receiver to wake up the boiler and the pump.

    The best thing is to contact Tado sales, with the full details of your boiler, whether it is a Y plan or S Plan, the model of your existing programmer, and the model of your existing thermostat. They should give you clear plans to make the upgrade. You'll have that in writing and they will be accountable if something goes wrong. You'll then have support once you make the change.

    In my experience, this takes about 2-3 hours to complete as a change. Need to take photos as you go along so that if something fails, one can reverse the process quickly.