Opentherm with Ideal Logic 30 Boiler

Blootoon

Packages came quicker than anticipated, so went to work hooking everything up.

Process was surprisingly straightforward and had everything working in just over an hour.

I have a question about the hot water aspect of the app though.

The app shows hot water as on between 0700 and 2200, which I imagine is the default, but as mine is a combi boiler, I can get hot water on demand at any time, if my understanding is right.

I also have the option to switch off the hot water in the app. Again, I didn't think I had any direct control of the HW on a combi other than setting the temperature.

Correct me if I'm wrong as it won't be the first time!

@tadouser1000 @NeonDusk

tadouser1000

@Blootoon that's great! Glad you got it all working.

I don't have hot water control because I think I initiated the install with a relay based Logic boiler and asked Tado to enable Opentherm manually so hence I don't get hot water control.

I believe hot water control turns hot water pre heat on and off. This is where the boiler fires up periodically to heat a small tank of water so you have instant hot water without having to wait a few seconds for the water to heat up. I've not used hot water pre heat or hot water control but this is my vague understanding

nick6young

Hi All.

Just a quick question... is there say way to tell from my boiler (or the app) if my extension kit has been wired up to allow OpenTherm? Or could I only confirm by looking at the actual wiring?

It was installed last year and I wasn't even aware, until I stumbled upon this thread, that my boiler was modulating. This is a bonus... I just hope my Tado has been making use of it!

Thanks

tadouser1000

@nick6young only sure way to tell is to check the wiring.

You could request a small amount of heat (0.5 degree) from one of your thermostats and check the flow temperature on the boiler. If it doesn't reach max flow temperature for small heat demand that means it's modulating using Opentherm

If the flow temperature reaches max every time (even for small heat demand) then it's wired using relay

nick6young

Thank for the response.

I've been keeping an eye on it and it seems to always crank up to 69 degrees every time. Which I believe is the max. I haven't seen it heating lower than that.

Having said that though... on my heat graph in the Tado app... when there is a dark grey zone, the heat ramps up rapidly. When it is the lightest grey... it seems to maintain the temp. Which leads me to believe it is indeed modulating.

I was hoping to post a screenshot to better explain what I mean, but there doesn't seem to be the option... so hopefully that description does a good enough job, ha!

tadouser1000

@nick6young yes I think I know what you mean. If the boiler is still going to max even during the light grey bit (usually when you see one wavy line) it suggests relay mode

CharlieC

I managed to install Opentherm on my logic 30. I didn’t need a harness, support told me I did. I think there is an older version of logic 30 main board that requires an harness. Anyway mine came with Opentherm and weather comp ready and I followed the logic + instructions. The only difference on mine is that I left the loop on thermostat connection. I saw it on Alan harts YouTube channel. After a day of messing about, it’s finally working, phew

Jimoarca_1

Hi

I have ideal logic combi esp1 35 and the tado kit I’ve mange to connect on the relay part but want to do the OT
I have a question about the wiring in the extension “Which connection are used for the OT?”
After reading here I know how to put it in D01 but I don’t really know which connection to use

Any indication appreciated

domvar

Hi All, after a few days of messing about have managed to get opentherm up and running on my Ideal Logic + C35 2016 model SN starting with ACV.

To do this I needed a wired Tado starter kit and an extension kit from ebay When I was looking there were only 2 available there are now loads (typical).

The stat I had in place before was a basic relay wireless plumb centre model which was not supported so I removed it and set it back to as shipped with the bridging wire between the two timer room stat connections on the 230v side of the board (left hand side) if you are in this position don't bother unless you want to waste a lot of time.

I wired a 2 core 230v supply line from the boilers live and neutral to the pins in the extender (using crimp on tips to avoid twisting wires together.

Then I wired the blue and black wires from the supplied cable from the extension kit to the +(black) and - (blue) pins on the extender and the other ends into the opentherm connections on the right hand side of the boiler's board I used the supplied rubber tips on the unused cores at both ends. (these connections are not polarity specific so it doesnt matter as long as you have the + / - connected to the 2 opentherm connections on the boiler.

I then removed the cover on the boilers main board and removed the connector from the right hand side of the timer aperture and connected it to the opentherm plug.

I then closed the board cover and sorted out all the grommets for the wires and closed the boiler up.

Then I followed the pairing instructions and set up of the thermostat as per the digital instal instructions:-

Extension_Kit_Manual_-_Low_Voltage_Digital_Installations.pdf (brandfolder.io) pages 4 - 11 following the path for with extender (the bottom one)

All done, or so I thought but when ever I turned the boiler on and the heating was on permanently this was due to the bridging wire I had put back in.

The ideal boiler has 2 bridging wires when shipped 1 on the board on the 230v side and one plugged into the socket inside the aperture on the front of the boiler (behind the blanking plate) (not the one you pull through for opentherm but the other one)

TO SAVE YOU A LOT OF HEAD SCRATCHING

The bridging wire behind the front blanking plate should be connected

The one between the 2 left most contacts on the 230v side of the board absolutely should not.

Boiler now modulating nicely I have the HW set to off but it still works on demand so ether it's for the preheater or it doesn't do anything, not sure yet.

I will try and add photos later :)

TheGreatCornholio

How can the bridging wire behind the blanking plate stay connected as you need this connector to be plugged into the link to the opentherm terminal? The instructions state the opposite.

Ian2022H

Reply to TheGreatCornholio: When viewed from the front, the bridging wire at the top LH connector needs to be there. The top RH connector is the one that needs to be plugged into the link (on the same wiring bunch but accessed from inside the boiler).

I've just gone through this whole exercise with my Logic+ 35 boiler (manufactured 2015). Ultimately successful 😀 - now controlled via opentherm! I've posted a thread with my experiences - hopefully may help people:

https://community.tado.com/en-gb/discussion/15021/ideal-combi-logic-wired-thermostat-opentherm-installation#latest

Crash_Evans

In the hope someone will read this, especially @NeonDusk. I have made a start changing over to Opentherm on my Logic Combi 35, I have the loom that is included with the weather adapter kit. So I thought I could replace my wired switched live - which is wired from the living room in an open plan layout (which I thought was direct to the boiler) but terminates in the spur. I’m after some advice on what approach to take now.

I have attached some pictures to show you the layout in the hope it is an easy(er) fix.

Thank you in advance for any help.

loopy82

Hi @Blootoon @tadouser1000 @sednem @NeonDusk I am hoping you can help me!

I have the Ideal Logic+ Combi Boiler 30. No mention of Opentherm being installed..... no sticker I can see.

The tado wireless thermostat was installed to the ideal logic+ combi 30 boiler (2016 model) by my brother who is a trained plumber and has installed hive and nest systems on multiple occasions.

All the modules - thermostat, receiver, internet bridge and the app on my phone appear to talk to each other as if I turn the heating on the stat up above the current room temp the light comes on the receiver and the boiler comes on and I can see the change in the setting on my phone. Likewise I can do it similarly via my phone. I can also turn the heating off with my phone (as at the moment...)

The app on my phone recognises when I am away and puts me in ‘away’ mode. (Though I am not paying £2.99 a month for this.... so not entirely sure what is happening...)

However, the boiler comes on and starts heating when it is below around 18/19 degrees regardless of the setting in the schedule/on the stat/app.

I have moved the location of the internet bridge so there are no walls and they are closer (thanks to a longer ADSL cable...) but that has not seemed to work. It is literally like being in the tropics.

Suggestions welcomed!

murvalous

Does anyone know if this works with the ideal exclusive 30?

johnnyp78

@loopy82 did you get this sorted? Sounds like a scheduling issue. Do you have any automatons set up with Alexa or HomeKit?

loopy82

Yup all sorted - i had to take out a wire that had been left in looping between two sections.