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Can I use the smart thermostat to control a plinth heater

Hi,

I have an extension kit, smart thermostat & TRV's controlling a combi. All works well.

In my kitchen I have a wet plinth heater. So when the boiler fires up, a thermostat on the water pipe inside the heater switches the fan on and blows warm air into my kitchen. I'd like to try and get better control of this by using my smart thermostat to switch the heater on and off. My thought was to use the thermostat relay to drive an external relay which would then switch the plinth heater on and off.

My question is can I reconfigure the installation so that the thermostat call for heat via the network extension kit and also switch the relay for the plinth heater?

The actual wiring isn't difficult, i'm just not sure if the thermostat can be configured in this way.

Answers

  • just thinking out loud - not knowing the wiring so well but from a pipe aspect a smart trv could sense some offset room temp and therefore allow flow to potentially reach the heater water pipe stat. Thoughts are even a small circuit flow/return so the smart trv acts as a bypass to allow temp to reach the plinth as opposed to acting like a dead leg. - Not a great answer but just thinking whats possible noting pipes be hidden behind plinth. Even with offset temp the plinth smart trv would be controllable via app

  • Resurrecting this question as I have the same situation.

    There seem to be two options:

    1. Use a wired thermostat to control the plinth heater. The complication here is that both the wired thermostat controlling the plinth heater and the existing wireless receiver controlling the boiler would need to switch on. Is that possible? What is the maximum current the wired thermostat can switch?
    2. Based on the above answer by jeffthompson I could use a Tado TRV to control the radiator and a Tado wireless temperature sensor in the room to measure the temperature. Then I could hide the TRV behind the plinth. I'm not sure how the heater would cope with a reduced water supply though, it might just shut off as it's not detecting enough heat/flow.

    Has anything changed since the original question was posted? Are there any other options?