Possible boiler fault, turn off Tado
Hello. We have Tado in just one room, it's a single storey extension with its own boiler.
We want to deactivate our Tado system until the engineer can come to the boiler next week. We are concerned that the room temperature may drop and kick in frost protection mode, we don't want this to happen and will keep an eye on the room temperature our with an old fashioned thermometer. If it gets that cold we will place a portable room heater.
Is there a way to stop Tado having control without physically removing the wireless receiver on the boiler? Should I unplug the internet bridge and/or remove the wireless temperature sensor in the app?
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If all you are doing is attempting to shut down the boiler, just turn off the switch that powers the boiler, and the chances are that it will also kill power to the Tado wireless receiver. If not, trace the power cables back to their origin and kill it there.
Your engineer will need access to whatever it is that powers the wireless controller anyway to complete his tests.
Or do you have something else in mind?
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Sorry yes I should have explained better. We need the boiler for hot water in that room. It's an electric boiler currently in summer mode for heating (ie not powering any heat). We noticed a potential issue when we tried to enter winter mode to start getting heat. So unplugging the internet bridge will not solve ir?
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Hello @Popote Answering your question is complicated. Community responders would need to know about your heating system, and how your Tado system is configured to control the boiler hot water and heating. It's hard to know if simply disconnecting the Internet dongle would give the desired result. That includes, for example, knowing if you have V3+ off-line schedules?
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Thank you @wateroakley.
Tado doesn't control the hot water, only the heating. Electric boiler. The heating is UFH, so no radiators so of course no TRVs . We have wireless receiver, internet bridge and the wireless temperature sensor. Currently the schedule is set to 5 degrees at all times of day (the lowest Tado will allow) as we have not needed to heat the room since April. I am surprised that there is no simple method to just override Tado/turn it off!
I guess if I can't prevent Tado from controlling the boiler the only solution will be to turn the boiler off completely as suggested earlier, and wait for the electrician, but it's a kitchen so we do need hot water.
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@Popote As you describe it there is an electric source of heating which can supply heat in response to a call for heat for hot water, and seperately a call for heat from a underfloor heating system. Somehow you have a Tado thermal sensor activating the underfloor call for heat. Would you clarify how that Tado system is wired into the boiler? Presumably there is a wired connection somewhere between the Tado domain of technology and the boiler. Is that:
- A wired connection to the underfloor heating wiring centre?
- Or a direct connection to the boiler?
Somehow it seems the simplest route is to remove the link between the Tado domain and where it connects to the process that instructs the boiler to provide power. What is that? What is the exact boiler make and model?
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@policywonk Thanks for your further input. The Tado wireless receiver is directly connected to the boiler. We didn't have this system installed ourselves and I have little knowledge of it.The boiler is EHS brand, I cannot see the model number/name on it, will keep looking.
So the system is like this - we have Tado Internet Bridge in the centre of the house, Tado Wireless Receiver wired to the electric boiler, Tado Wireless Temperature Sensor in the room.
All I want to do is remove control from Tado until our boiler has been checked. I am tempted now to just get it all removed when the engineer comes as I am struggling having something in my house that I cannot override!
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If you are comfortable with this, I suggest you power off the boiler:
- Check, the wireless receiver should be dead now.
- At the bottom of the wireless receiver there is a screw, undo it slowly and there should be a point where it allows you to hinge it up and out.
- Label the wires that go to the boiler with the names of the points where they were screwed into the receiver.
- Remove the ones that are connected to the Central Heating side.
- Should be only two CH COM, and CH NO.
- Remove them. Cover them individually in insulating tape. Bend them aside.
- Put the cover back on. Turn the power back on. Hot Water should work but the UFH side should now be dead.
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