Very loud noise from two different radiators since Tado installed

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JamesL
JamesL ✭
edited April 19 in General Questions & Topics

I've had Tado for about a year and a half. Mostly it's been good but there are two glaring problems that we haven't been able to fix.

  1. When the programs run automatically, often my boiler gets a fault code and goes to sleep until I reset it. The plumber has been round many times as it happens over and over. He installed a second pump in the system to help it out. He then resorted to leaving one radiator on all the time as it turned out that the problem is that the valves shut off very suddenly and cause the boiler to feel a pressure issue in the system. It then shuts down for safety. It only seems to happen with Tado TRV's so now I have one small radiator that has to run all the time to allow a little softening of the impact. Apparently it's a known problem, but it's a big problem for me.
  2. Two of the radiators (which are nice modern ones) suddenly start making a VERY loud noise like a hum - loud enough to make conversation hard. I tried to upload a video here but it won't let me. After many more trips, the plumber said he thought it was the Tado. He was right. The only way to stop it is to push down on top of the Tado when it happens. That stops the noise, which is a very loud vibration, until you release it. You then have to change the temp and change it back again to make it stop. Very annoying.

Has anyone had these problems and found a fix?

Answers

  • wateroakley
    wateroakley ✭✭✭
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    1. What model of boiler do you have? Does the boiler require an external bypass or is there an internal bypass? Perhaps the bypass is faulty?
    2. Perhaps the TRV itself is faulty or the problem is related to 1. ?

  • JamesL
    JamesL ✭
    edited April 20
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    I have a Baxi 830 Combi.

    As for the bypass, I lifted this out of the manual, "The boiler utilises the primary side of the DHW plate heat exchanger as an automatic integral bypass. In some cases an additional bypass may be required depending upon system design."

    I'm going to try a different TRV and see if that makes any difference. The plumber also thought the radiator valve itself could be faulty.

    I think I've managed to upload a video to this…

  • wateroakley
    wateroakley ✭✭✭
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    Sounds like your plumber should consider fitting an external automatic bypass on the pipework when he's changing the radiator TRV valves?

  • JamesL
    JamesL ✭
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    Really? I don't understand plumbing much - what would that do?

  • wateroakley
    wateroakley ✭✭✭
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    When everything is up to temperature …. the pump will continue to run for several minutes (aka pump overrun) to dissipate heat from the boiler by circulating the hot CH water. The boiler cools slightly and the home is heated slightly. This contributes to energy efficiency. If all the rad valves are 'OFF' there is nowhere for the water and heat to go ... so an automatic bypass will allow the water to circulate between the boiler flow and return. This bypass can be inside the boiler (your internal bypass is the DHW plate heat exchanger) ); or a small external bypass widget (a spring-loaded valve) on the pipework before the zone valves; or leaving one rad fully open without a TRV. If the open rad is after the zone valve, this may not be suitable. Without a bypass, some boilers or pumps will complain bitterly and some boilers can go into 'error' mode.

    This web page explains all of it better than I can … https://www.boilercentral.com/boiler-advice/pump-overrun-on-boiler/#/

  • JamesL
    JamesL ✭
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    Oh that’s great to know. Thank you for the detailed reply. I suspect that could well be what’s happening with number 1.

    I will get straight onto the plumber and ask him.

    Thank you very much.

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