Do i have right kit after moving home?
Hi,
Had Tado in previous house, Extension kit with wireless thermostat and then lots of Tado Rad valves. It was connected to a gas boiler and unvented cylinder, controlled heating and hot water all good.
Moved house and we have a boiler, an unvented cylinder and two heating zones (three if you include hot water), upstairs and downstairs with wireless thermostats for each zone and a wall timer/controller for heating and hot water. Boiler is on ground floor and cylinder with all valves and wireless thermostat controllers/receivers so i'm guessing s plan plus?
I'd like to swap like for like and have control over each radiator through Tado valves and control over hot water, i'm happy to lose the two heating zones or just move them over to permanently open. The zones are a pain as the way it's set up zone 2 will only get hot water if zone 1 is open, piping is wrong but previous owner of house wasn't bothered. Hence happy to lose zones or operate in 1 heating zone mode.
Can i do this with my existing extension kit and wireless receiver and valves? And if yes, how would i go about it, the instructions seem ambiguous. And to add, i didn't set it up in our previous house, the installer did it when we had an old systemate setup replaced, so new to wiring/commissioning Tado.
My setup is -
Greenstar 40 CDI Conventional boiler
Horstman H37XL Controller next to the boiler on the ground floor
Two Wireless Danfoss RF thermostats and two Danfoss RX1 receivers
Santon Premier plus unvented hot water system
Thanks for any advice.
Answers
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@Bodtwo Your plumbing is novel: the Honeywell hot water zone valve appears to be in series with the centre Danfoss CH zone valve? That’s a new one for me. Presumably you can only heat the HW tank when the centre CH valve is open? Several other widgets: is the left side widget is a bypass? And the right angle valve connected to the pump vertical pipe is a system filler or ?? Looking at one of the Ts, is this a 3/4 to 22 adapter? If so, it suggest a mix of very old and newer plumbing
If you want to avoid re-plumbing … In principle (logic) keep the centre valve open manually, control the left CH valve and HW valve with the two Tado channels for CH and HW, fit Tado SRVs on every rad (assuming a bypass somewhere). When Tado calls for CH heat, the left valve opens and Tado SRVs control the (heated) water entering each rad. When Tado calls for HW, with a cylinder stat in series, the HW valve opens and the HW tank heats until the cylinder stat turns off. The Tado rad SRVs on the open plumbing circuits prevent the rads heating. The potential gotcha is HW heating where an open SRV will allow a room to be heated when not scheduled. With the unusual plumbing and thermostats It’s unclear what wiring changes may be necessary.
if in any doubt, best to consult a professional heating engineer who knows Tado, can figure out what is happening and sort out the plumbing.
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Thanks for replying. I’ll check tomorrow and then label up pipe image, that may make more sense. The hot water works fine, doesn’t need any other valve/zone to be open, the issue we have is zone 2 will not work/heat unless zone 1 valve is on/open. Hence the comment on just leaving them both in the open position and having a tado on every radiator.
If we didn’t have the unusual plumbing we’d be fine using the kit we have, removing the controller downstairs and replacing it with the wireless extension unit, correct? Would be good to know so I can at least get my head round things in principal.
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@Bodtwo Any update boftwo?
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