Understanding wiring the wireless receiver.

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k3v
k3v
edited October 2022 in General Questions & Topics
I'm thinking of buying tado again and I have asked this a while ago but didn't get an answer so I'll ask again.

My house has 2 central heating zones run off a combi boiler. Downstairs is underfloor heating with a wired thermostat which runs off the hot water channel of the programmer.

Upstairs are radiators with no thermostat and this is run off the central heating channel of the programmer

How do I wire up the tado wireless receiver which replaces the programmer? It has one set of connectors for central heating and a set for hot water like my current programmer but in my case hot water isn't used for a hot water tank its the underfloor heating. Do I just wire my underfloor heating to the hot water connections on the tado wireless receiver and the tado customer support tweak the back end?

I was planning on buying a tado wireless kit with an additional wireless thermostat to use upstairs initially and then buy smart trvs at a later date

I have looked at drayton as well and they do a three channel receiver, two for central heating zones and one for water, I can understand the wiring of this as I would swap my hot water wires to the second central heating channel and just not use the hot water. I just don't understand how to do it with tado.




Hope this makes sense.

Comments

  • GrilledCheese2
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    The wireless receiver is not going to do what you want it to do. The device has two relays, but only one of these is thermostatically controlled. The HW relay will only be on/off.

    One possible solution for you is to keep the 2 channel programmer and replace the downstairs thermostat with a Tado wired thermostat. This will give you full control of the UFH time/temperature.

    I assume you have TRVs upstairs at the moment to regulate temperature. You could install smart TRVs on ALL radiators in Independent mode, which will regulate the temperature, but won't give you full time control. I assume you use the current programmer to limit the number of hours. The downside of this solution is the motorised valve is activated for extended periods, even if the smart TRVs are not heating the radiators. However, I assume this is already happening with your current setup.

    Ideally you would get your system updated so that you have thermostatic control of both hydronic zones.

  • k3v
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    Thanks for the concise reply, you have confirmed what I suspected, not that I am by any means an expert.

    You are current there are trvs upstairs. Out of curiosity what is the downside of having the motorised valves running for extended periods?
    I guess having thermostatic control added upstairs mean having a wired thermostat added. If so this is what I was trying to avoid by adding a wireless one.

    Cheers for replying!
  • GrilledCheese2
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    When the motorised valve is energised it will consume a small amount of power. Also, energising the motor will potentially shorten the valve's life for each hour it is used. That said, some valves last decades and others burn out after only a few years.

    The installation of a wireless receiver downstairs where you have your current programmer will enable a wireless thermostat to be installed upstairs. But you'll need a plumber/electrician to re-wire your system. You would use the CH channel in the wireless receiver, but the HW channel would be unused.