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Underfloor heating question

Hi

I have 2 types of heating in my home: 2nd floor has radiators (that are equipped with Tado smart thermostats) and underfloor heating on the first floor. The heat is generated by Nibe Split 270 unit (but I think this is irrelevant)
I want to add Tado to first floor as well but I don't have any automation there at the moment. I was thinking to use Luxor or Watts actuator on the manifold and wire the Tado thermostat directly to the actuator. Would this work?

Best Answers

  • Hi Shmarkus,

    I am in the same situation as you:

    • radiators at the 1st floor with smart thermostats;
    • underfloor heating at the ground floor.

    I bought the wireless extension kit and I wired the wireless receiver directly to the heating system and it communicates wireless with the smart thermostats.

    Additionally I have a wired tado which I intend to use it for the actuator of the underfloor heating.

    I plan to connect the wires of the tado thermostat to a relay which could trigger the on/off of the actuator. Hopefully the tado thermostat will also "inform" (via the wireless communication) the central heating to start.

    I am not 100% that this will work.


    Another point is that tado wireless receiver has also the connection for a relay. I was wondering if the wireless receiver could be connected via eBus to the heating system and via the relay wires to the actuator. (If yes, then I could use a tado wireless temperature sensor in the living room and get rid of the wires. (But I do not know how to configure the wireless receiver to control both eBus and relay.)


    Please let me know how you solved it.

  • Shmarkus
    edited November 2021 Answer ✓
    I decided to go with Danfoss actuator (Danfoss Thermot Thermal Actuator Underfloor Heating 088H3220).

    Wired a proof of concept so that one wire from the electric box is wired directly to the actuator. The other wire goes to Tado Wired thermostat and another wire comes back from the thermostat to the actuator (wired to COM and NC terminals). This should create the circuit when the thermostat switches heat on and break the circuit otherwise.

    At the moment the actuator is not responding. It's either faulty device or wiring is wrong :sweat_smile:

    Edit: did some debugging with a light bulb. Everything is working as expected. It's actually not harder than wiring a simple light switch- Tado side COM is one incoming power cable. for the outgoing (when the thermostat "presses" the switch) choose NC if your actuator is NC type and NO when it's NO. This wire should go to the actuator and the other wire from the actuator should be the other incoming power cable

Answers

  • Since there seems to be no one who knows this, I decided to try blindly. Thermostats should arrive soon and then I'll pick up the actuators as well.
  • TtT
    TtT ✭✭

    I'm not an expert and not familiar with those actuators, but...

    The actuators will need power and the tado just acts as a switch (switched live) so can't see how it would work directly wired unless you can find power and incorporate the tado stat as a switch, then it should work fine.

    I used a wiring centre which does that job for my setup - but I have a different setup.

  • AFAIK the actuators have their own power supply (that's what they told me in the store, when I wanted to buy the controller as well). I'll post again once I have all the components.
  • It seems that you'd have to write to the thermostats NO terminal, even if you have NC actuator. Because I wired to NC and the actuators open when thermostat is off and close when it's on..
  • I have a full Tado setup with wet UFH downstairs connected via Tado wired thermostats back to a heatmiser controller which control manifold actuators. Then upstairs controlled by 5 radiator valves and a wall mounted thermostat (master) used to call for heat back to the controller at the boiler.

    Had it installed 2 years now and works perfect.
  • Thanks Cavester!

    I'm looking for a simple solution with no controllers, only Tado radiator valves, wired thermostats and actuators for manifold. So far it seems to have worked but I might have a faulty thermostat (always on)
  • I contacted the tado support and finally the did something on their side. After that everything works as expected!
  • Hm I have exactly the same setup, Danfoss 088H3220 230V NC and a Tado thermostat. Blue wire from actuator to neutral wire from outlet, brown wire from actuator into Tado NC. Live wire from outlet to COM. Upon changing the values on the thermostat I hear a click so I assume that is working. But the actuator never goes up and down, it stays constantly fully closed. Any idea?

  • Seems my tado was faulty, exchanged one works perfectly.
  • Could someone help me with a diagram or pictures how to install Tada on the Ground Floor where I have underfloor heating being installed. I got wired thermostants with the manifold. Can I just simply replace those with Tado? Can I avoid doing wired thermostats all together and do Tado wireless?

    (I have Tado on the boiler for 1st floor with radiators. The UFH is New)

  • TtT
    TtT ✭✭

    Lamis,

    It really depends on the type of Thermostats you have and the wiring centre they are wired to. If you are just having it installed I would check asap as you might not want some systems installed as they are not compatible with tado.

    Easiest way to check is to speak to tado with the exact model of your thermostats.

    If they are using a switched live configuration then it'll be fine but if they are using a resistance based method you'll need to replace the wiring centre - which is what I had to do.

    Not sure why you'd want wireless if you have wired thermostats - generally the wireless route is only because you have not got wiring in place - and will be more expensive.

    Note: Wireless UFH systems are not supported - if you had one of those you have to replace the control centre.

    You've not said how many zones, but if you desperately wanted wireless thermostats (which makes no sense if you have wiring in place) then I think some people have managed it by fitting wired thermostats to the valves and then wireless temp sensors in the room it controls. That gets quite expensive esp if you have a lot of zones.

    Hope that helps!